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Gravel Bike Tubeless Conversion // Schwalbe G-One Bite TLE


Welcome to another hands-on session here in the Llama garage Today’s project is to convert the Canyon Grail from tubes over to tubeless The Schwalbe G-One Bite TLE 40 mm tyres on this bike are tubeless ready The DT Swiss rims are tubeless ready and now I have everything down here That is tubeless ready. Today’s equipment list is as follows the Doc Blue sealant enough to fill 60 mL front 60 mL back The KOM cycling injector to get the sealant in there and to measure the sealant. We have the valves We have some soapy water and we have two pumps on hand. I have the Blackburn chamber pump in case we need to Explode the tire onto the rim and we have the trusty old Joe Blow pump and I have a rag because no doubt this could get a little messy and As a backup, I have some tyre levers just in case I can’t get those tires hooked onto the rim But we shouldn’t need those today. Now, some would say me tinkering with tubeless is like cutting myself to see if it bleeds and You’d probably be right. My experience with tubeless to date It has been a little Deflating so to speak. Yes dad jokes (I am qualified to make dad jokes now) But look brand new for me tubeles has been brilliant for my very first pair of hunt wheels. Where Dr. Slane and I converted them over to tubeless they ran beautifully right through till the GP 5000 TLs Where the front took eight minutes to convert, the back took eight minutes to convert. (not this bike my other bike) But that was absolutely seamless It just happens to be when I run into sharp objects or need to swap tires over with tubeless It becomes a bit of a problem. So I don’t foresee any issues today swapping these Schwalbe (Apologies for my pronunciation isn’t quite right. My German isn’t the best) These Schwalbe tyres should be converted over because effectively they’re brand new tyres on rims that are compatible I have everything here on the Schwalbe website. They actually do the conversion very easily and they use a hand pump I’m not going to go that far today I’m gonna be using a track pump plus a chamber pump in case I do need it Alright enough talking. Let’s see how easy this process is. There is a lot of air in these tyres a lot more volume than what I’m used to on the road be sure Yeah, okay, I’m not gonna get these off by hand I thought I’d be able to do that All I need is just to pop it over just a little bit and it’d be good to go Tyre levers plastic so you can’t do too much damage Tube is out now these have only got Probably less than 100 kilometers on them. So everything is brand new All looks well. I won’t even have to pop the tyre off the bead at all on the other side So I’m going to keep rolling with it by putting the valve in And the tip last week from the comments in the channel was to put the bead on from the opposite side of the valve So let’s give that a shot this time Boom! Done okay. We are on. Making sure the tyres on both sides of the valve. It is indeed now Here’s the next trick the soapy water trick now Schwalbe (again pronunciation apologies if I’m getting that wrong) do have an applicator with some kind of Liquid-type slippy-type stuff. Um dishwashing liquid warm water and It’s all we really should need just to make that tyre slip on Both sides And I’ll first try with just a standard Old trusty pump. Old crusty here. The Joe blow pump that I’ve had for years and years See if it just sits on the rim Oh, get out of here. No way! As I said me and tubeless and brand new things… My word! That was… that just popped on like that. No tricks. No nothing. Okay Let’s keep rolling with it if my luck is going that well It’s a happy day! If that does work, I’ll be so stoked with the front and back Okay, so that’s popped on the rim. We don’t have any Doc blue [in the tyre] which is the sealant Sure, this is my favorite sealant, it’s the only one I’ve got sorry. It’s gonna be my favorite sealant today Now the fun part. You installed the sealant first of all, let’s do things the right way so that’s being shaken up quite a bit “Stanimals” was the word for those playing a long game for that Jonathan from TrainerRoad has branded the little gummy bally bits of stans gunk that eventuate in the tires after a while, so We want 60ml front and back. That’s what Dr. Slane tells me. It’s probably going to be a good bet 60 ml of Sealant that’s quite a bit. Don’t forget your towel Next up. Deflate the tyre Remove the valve core, stick the tyre on an angle Goop goes in Core back on Tyre back up, I’m gonna be running 30 on the front, 35 on the rear that’s about what I could find as the recommended Pressures for my weight around 75 kg on 40 mm tyres on gravel. If anybody has any other tips on what pressure I should be running let me know? Okay 30 Done and we give this a good shaking I guess the theory is that you’re shaking it all around that’s coating the inside of the tyre. I can hear it shaking around So I’m will need to go for a roll and on these. That was the whole plan of today to get this done so I can get out for a ride Can you believe it?! I can’t! That’s Awesome! One down, one to go. Look at that dinner plate Bigger than your head. Okay, same deal, rinse and repeat. Let’s get this one done nice and fast I’m not sure if it’s a thing, but I just coat the valve bit of the sealant, it slips in a little easier That way hopefully seals in little holes, which is what it’s going to do inside the tyre anyway Finger tight they say. Finger tight. Again opposite side will work the tyre on thank you to the people who pointed that out last week. It worked last tyre Bam! Awesome, go Internet. Thank you for that one, brilliant. Tyres on both sides again out with the dishwashing liquid Here we go, ah That’s pure joy, that is pure joy So that all I have left in there Same deal again. Let the air out Okay, now we are let down and the best part about this is the tyre hasn’t popped off the rim and a few of the Road conversions I was doing the tyre would pop off the rim and wouldn’t inflate again So this pops out on the rim and grabs a hold and stays there brilliant core comes out And 35 on the rear So there we are one and two tyres converted over to tubeless without a problem in the world that was super simple! Pumped up with one hand on a track pump. So all this equipment. I think the soapy water really did help The doc blue sealant I’ll probably move to Stans after this Let me know your favorite sealant for gravel off-road mountain bike which sort of this is the category that these are in as I said before letting them to air out after it and beaded to put the Sealant in the tyre didn’t pop back off, which is a problem I was having in the past. That’s happy days. We’ve got about another hour of sunlight left for today. I’m going out for a ride

Norman Bunn

88 Comments

  1. I've used tyre levers on every tubeless mounting I've done both old and new tyres and I havent had any issues seating them. I don't understand why people keep insisting that you can't user levers. Also Doc Blue = Stans sealant.

  2. I notice you called your Tires Schwable… they're called Schwal BEE. Haha…

  3. Lol .. you installed one tyre starting at the valve and the other on the opposite side

  4. Good work 😀 I bet you could have skipped the dish washing liquid… Congrats on the little one 🙂

  5. I can’t believe how big that cassette is. Must be climbing 20%. Great technique in this video for mounting tubeless. I like Orange Endurance sealant as it does not have ammonia and hence no corrosion.

  6. Don't be surprise why those tires went in so easy… Once you had them mounted with a tube inside, the bead got well formed.. After that, it's really easy. In fact, that's the method that is recommended when having difficulty mounting tubeless tires… ie use a tube first. haha.

  7. Thoughts @ 00:00:00 – Can't wait to watch Shane lose his composure on this on 😀
    Thoughts @ 04:00:00 – Righto seems like he might have this under control …. now expecting 0 expletives.

    … Yep Shane nailed it. Waiting for the new channel "The Shane Miller Llama Gravel Hour" to pop up 😉

  8. I always get paranoid I'm going to damage the valve when I put a tyre on valve last.

  9. Nice saddle to bar drop on the grail! Always a challenge to achieve that on gravel/endurance bikes. Wot size Shane?

  10. I converted these tires with a black sidewall on a Fulcrum 7 DB wheelset to tubeless a couple days ago… And have the same experience… It was very easy with no problems at all! For tire prssure. I would start at 2.5 bars rear and 2.3 bars in the front…

  11. I recall Schwalbe is German for Sparrow or some other small bird… it was the name for the Me-262 jet aircraft 🙂

  12. As far as I know the doc blue is made by stans. For a guide to sealants in real life check out bike radar test on about 10 different manufacturers. I have used Stans for about 10 years and it does the job. Try Stans Dart for a quick repair of a hole which is too big for the sealant to fix. I have had the same quick install on my Schwalbe Pro one on my road bike. The key to success is finding a brand of rim and tyre that work together then stick with it.

  13. Hey Shane, nice video. Did you know, that you can remove the lever of the thru axles. Aero gainz and our Weightweenie Rides of Japan would appreciate it too. 😉

  14. I have used stans and orange seal, both work great. Orange seal saved my bacon one day when I got stuck on a trail covered in millions *ish of cat heads, my tires were coated with the buggers, I did get covered in sealant when I removed them at speed with my foot. I lost some PSI but I got home fine! (23PSI when I started).
    Only fails of tubeless have been myself when I don't refresh the sealant or pull back the rim tape by mistake.

    Gravel riding I've heard mid to high 20's on the JRA podcast, I went from 40 down to mid 20's on tubes on my hardtail on a 70km corrugated gravel ride.
    anyway, this is more mountain bike stuff so YMMV

    Great video, want to see more on the grail! thanks Shane

  15. Very nice bike! Tried most sealants available in the UK and stuck with Orange Seal Endurance for the last 18 months without issues. Enjoy the groad! (PS. Doc Blue is same as Stan’s).

  16. Ok now another set of wheels and TL tires. Swap the tires so we see your luck v2.0 with prev sealed tires and/or wheels. -U10

  17. bro, so brave to do this with a track pump.
    I heard most dudes need a large hadron collider to assist in the conversion.
    Kudos to you, dad jokes and all!

  18. whats the aliante like on the old gravel bike? currently I run my prologo zero cpc saddle which can be a bit firm.

  19. pronounciation tip from a German: Schwalbe ist pronounced "shwalbe" with a spoken e (like in porsche). great vid!

  20. You cant always blame tubeless, if something isnt working its more the rim / tire combo, I put some pirelli cinturato 28mm tubeless tires on my 17mm int. giant wheels and could basically pop onto the bead with a hand pump and at 0 psi was hard to pop off the bead, well I swapped to some roval 21mm int. wheels with same tires but new and I literally needed 500psi nitrogen and no core in my tubeless valve to pop onto the bead, no bike shop in Australia would be able to get it on 🙂 Also its dangerous at about 20psi the tire just pops off the bead, 4000km no punctures and it works just fine but its a terrible setup, it would be interesting to see if a inner tube would pop it onto the bead.

  21. I just converted my Grail to tubeless using Schwalbe’s own kit – same as you’re experience – popped on first time using a std. track pump.

  22. Been using Endurance Orange sealant with results, would recommend Stan's second. Cheers!

  23. Doc Blue is Produced by Stan’s NoTubes! => https://www.schwalbe.com/en/procore/articles/doc-blue

  24. Heh Lama , Fyi. Doc blue is produced by stan's no tubes for schwalbe. So happy days

  25. Regarding pressure this is the best webapp: https://www.openasapp.net/portal#!/client/app/0673afd7-25f6-4dfb-9233-2cea123fb0ed

  26. Great video! That went brilliantly. When it comes to sealants I heard a little while ago that someone at Bike Radar was working on piece looking into which sealants functioned best as well as which ones were environmentally friendlier than others. Apparently some are straight up toxic.

  27. What do you think of the wheelset? I picked up the GR1600 a few months ago while I was waiting on XDR hubs for my other wheels. They're somewhat heavy but seem to ride nicely with the Rene-Herse Barlow Pass I put on them.

  28. Or you could just use a tube and carry one with you. 2 Pumps, valves, soapy water, sealant, etc. All a bit of a bother.

  29. Orange Seal is the best IMO. Been using it for years and it always seals well and doesnt clump as much as Stans.

  30. Great video as always. Might I suggest a PARK TOOL VC-1 VALVE CORE TOOL (or something similar) to toss in a saddle bag? I have had a valve core shoot out when I tried to drop the pressure and lost it immediately, then needing to call the missus for a ride since I didn't have a spare. Cheers!

  31. There is a much easier and faster way to install your tubeless tiers.
    Get your self a tire booster, install the tire to the rim, put the milk inside the tire before you install the second side of the tire to the rim, use the booster and… done.
    So you save the time for deinstall the valve and you must pump the tire up just one time.

  32. I wanted to let you know that after several latex baths and failures I am now running tubeless. There is a new product from Specialized called RapidAir sealant, which has been specially designed to be run at a high pressure (72psi+). Apparently it's ok to use co2 with it. It's expensive at $10 per 60ml bottle. Each tube takes a full bottle. Also I gave up on commercial bike syringes and went for Amazon available syringes for glue using blunt tips. They're really high quality. I'm using BSTEAN 100ml Syringe with 4 Inch 14G uger lock needles with a blunt tip. Those 14g will go through an e*13 stem which I'm using. Thanks for all your help and shared experiences.

  33. It's pronounced Schwal – Bee. The "L" is before the "B". The way you pronounced it the "B would be before the "L". Just saying. It's okay though if you're not perfect.

  34. Silca just added a tire pressure calculator on their website for all cycling disciplines. Just add your weight and weight of bicycle, tire width and cycling discipline and then your given the exact tire pressures front/rear.

  35. I always leave the soapy water on until after the sealant is added and the tires are up to pressure. Then shake the wheels to get sealant around the bead. No bubbles = happy days!

  36. I'm a big fan of Muc Off sealant. The big advantage of it is that like most it doesn't dry out and form annoying sticky balls inside the tyres that are a pain to remove, it simply washes of with water. Which really good if you're ever needing to to do any wheel repairs etc. Great content and I hope you're enjoying the gravel experience. Welcome to the dark side 😂

  37. I guess if your not a native to Germany, its Shhh-wall-beeeeeeee. But if you’re a German, its Shhhhh-valb

    That tyre pop is so satisfying…

  38. I'm having small issues with the front end coming loose after long off road rides. Any experiences with this Shane?
    I'm riding the 2020 CF SL Di2

  39. That rear cassette reminds me of those insanly huge spinning rims on rap cars…

    Let's get real, 2x in the front wasn't for nothing.

  40. The other little tip I've seen is to use a little sealant around the valve before you push it all the way in. Guess to help fully seal around the valve as only doing it finger tight.

  41. I've been waiting for a puncture before converting my Canyon over to tubeless. 9 months in and still waiting. But after seeing this, I may have a task for the weekend.

  42. 60cc seems on the high end of sealant. I run Schwalbe 32s and used 30-40cc(not too precise at the Allen home) and they have held tight for one year.. But I also have much higher pressure, so maybe that's the difference?. MUCH different to get a new tubeless tire on: thick bead makes it hard

  43. Great video. Thanks. Will be really interested in what you think of the Grail. I have the CF7.0 and absolutely love it. Worth putting your Hunts on it – might need to swap the discs – and give it a road review too, for those like me who want a versatile winter bike. With Roval CL50s on mine, it flies on the road and loved taking it off-road at the end of the summer too. End of N+1??!

  44. Weight 150lbs,
    650b 42mm tire I run at 26psi front and 28 psi rear. But my gravel is much bumpier than your.
    700c 40mm have even more volume so you might be able to run similar pressure, i guess.

  45. Shoulda weighed the wheels before and after the conversion. I primarily use road tubeless for the weight savings. I use a spray bottle with soapy water to help seat the tire

  46. Orange Seal Endurance. I find I can go 6-8 months on one charge. Come fall (now) I switch to winter rims and start with fresh sealant after a good cleaning of the inside of the rim.

  47. 30-35 is about what I'm using on my Specialized Sequoia with 700×42 tires, and I'm 90 kg. Now I use the Speciallized Sawtooth tires and they are a bit on the stiff side but I guess you could experiment with slightly lowering the pressure. With 47 mm "road plus" tires on 650b wheels I typically stay below 30 psi, both front and rear.

    Also, your experience mimics mine when it comes to setting up gravel tires tubeless. They just pop straight on with just a track pump, I haven't even had to use soapy water. And then they just stay there. I still haven't dared to try tubeless road tires, for various reasons.

  48. I’ve got the AL version of that bike with the same tires. Where can you find replacements to buy? I can’t find the tan ones, just black.

  49. Shane, the Schwalbe tubeless sealant has a very similar formula compared to the stan's. I have mafe great experiences with the effetto mariposa caffelatex! They sealed most of my punctures. The ones they didn't, I used maxalamis!

  50. SILCA has an online tire pressure calculator that seems pretty close for me. For apps, I use the TyreWiz app by Quark to get a starting point for most of my setups.

  51. I run 28mm at 115 psi on my single gear, so no need for 'less at the mo. What are the profound differences, you didn't mention them in your vid.

  52. No idea where / when I would use it as never ridden on gravel but I want that bike.

  53. Why the soapy water? Wide tyres like these slip on quite easily. I actually made my own grail tires tubeless last week. I did need a tubeless booster for one of the tires, but soapy water is to check for leaks. Getting the beads to seat is easy with supple tires like these 🙂

  54. Good video; I've found switching to tubeless hit & miss. I can do exactly the same for front and back wheels, yet only one will work. So, another layer of rim tape and/or another type of valve….it can be pretty frustrating.

  55. OK Shane, good job! But that's only the first and rather easy part of it. Turns out that some rim/tyre combinations tend to lose air pressure afterwards (i.e. over night). One way to overcome this is to start riding the newly converted tyres with a good 4-5 bar pressure and let the sealant do its work. I made the mistake of not doing this and the tyres would always lose pressure over night with sealant coming out and not getting dry …

  56. well… first to mention it… interesting… regarding sealant Shane… the real trick is…. glitter… add a small amount of glitter (stuff you use for arts and crafts, purple works the best 🙂 ) to which ever sealant you prefer… acts like platelets and seals up a puncture much faster…

  57. As opposed to soapy water, use a bit of sealant on the bead. Helps to glue the tyre to the rim, so stops burping at ultra low cyclocross pressures.

  58. schwalbe is not only a bird. look at this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nAYVFfV823U

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