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EPISODE 6 – CRYSTAL WATER


Images I keep in mind from the October sessions are crystal clear An ocean that becomes surprisingly transparent, a translucent swell that I surfed since the first set until the very last wave On that day the swell forecast was clear, the last big sets are in the morning before the swell gradually drop to flat calm I wanted to surf as long as possible and I anticipated the swell size drop by bringing a back-up longboard, and it was time to switch my equipment The joy of a Longboard A longboard is a board with minimum length of 9 feet so shortboards are logically shorter This one for example is 6 feet long. A longboard has so more volume and floating surface to slide easily on a flat slope. Here for example I struggle to ride the wave with a shortboard if I don’t pump waves that day were more suitable for longboards, and that guy made the right board choice! the size of the longboard allow the surfer to move on it from the tail to the nose. Put one foot all the way to the front is a nose ride called hang five. Why? Because five like the 5 toes that hang the board. then there is the more difficult hang ten ten for the 10 toes. For the beginners and the experienced riders there is the always useful hang loose or shaka bra! Once on the board, you need to find the right section of wave, the good rhythm and balance to realize these manoeuvres. Personally you’ll se I am still very bad! well, I tell you this but you must keep in mind that there are no rules, everyone surf whatever board as he wants. If I surf longboard occasionally when I find the waves small, others prefer riding longboard regardless the conditions. The idea is just to please yourself and have fun! Let’s go back to the October crystal water, you now know why I switched my equipment for a longboard that day. It allows me to surf until the last breath of swell and keep training my nose riding skills!

Norman Bunn

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